Ancient floral headdress tradition continues to bloom

Visitors wearing zanhua, or flower hairpins, pose for a photo in front of an oyster-shell house in the ancient fishing village of Xunpu in Quanzhou, Fujian province, on March 6. More than 30 journalists and influencers from China and abroad experienced the tradition during a tour that day. Recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in 2008, the age-old practice has become a popular tourism activity. [Photo by Chen Yi for China Daily]

In the ancient fishing village of Xunpu on the coast of Quanzhou, Fujian province, flowers don't just sprout in local gardens, but also atop the heads of the local women, nearly all of whom are crowned by colorful floral wreaths.

It is a daily practice that has continued for centuries.

In narrow stone alleys, the sound of knives shucking oysters can be heard, as grandmothers with thinning silver hair work while wearing wreaths of seasonal blooms.

This ancient art, called zanhua, transforms the grit of their laborious task into a display of grace and color.

Xunpu sits at the heart of the ancient Quanzhou port, serving as a microcosm of Maritime Silk Road culture.

On May 6, zanhua, or wearing flower hairpins, was showcased at a cultural event in Morocco to mark the 680th anniversary of the Moroccan explorer Ibn Battuta's visit to Quanzhou.

Many believe that during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), seafaring traders passing through the port brought exotic flower species to local women. An old local opera lyric also depicts the tradition: "In the fourth month, the floral crown is worn; it is heavy on both sides."

The first phrase describes how Xunpu women string seasonal flowers — Arabian jasmine, magnolia and the like — into a garland and encircle it around their coiled hair buns. The second depicts the headdress' shape: a hairpin, traditionally made of fishbone or ivory — or even a chopstick — is fixed horizontally through the bun, while clusters of blossoms sit heavily and abundantly on both sides.

The tradition is entwined with the worship of Mazu, the sea goddess. Fisherwomen believe in Mazu, who sacrificed herself to save others. Out of reverence, they wear fresh flowers when visiting her temple to seek blessings.

Today, fisherwomen continue to adorn themselves before facing the rigor of their work, carrying on a practice that, like the flowers themselves, continues to blossom.

And not just in Quanzhou.